Back Break Mod
When the pics started to appear in the us bmx mags of the sun ringlet 2into 1 thingy, I wanted one.
Several years on and they are still not over here but luckily a very clever bloke named Bob Holton came up with this that I have on my bike today.
You will need:
1 two piece seat clamp ( I use a TNT one but a DK one will work.)
2 right angle cable adjusters from any bike shop.
Either a 10mm tap or a drill that is the same size as the nut on the adjuster or both
A G-sport nipple clamp.
2 good quality brake cables.
Take the seat clamp and accurately drill a hole in the centre of the middle of the clamp,
Either tap it to a 10mm thread or drill the inside so it will accept the adjuster nut. (I use a drill with the end ground flat as the clearance is too tight and the nut can sit flush.)
Fit the adjusters.
Fit the clamp to the frame and fit the cables.
Pros and cons
VERY smooth if cables are lubed and dialled right.
Chay-up to replace cables.
Very little flex or mush.
Very little spring tension required.
Can be hard to set up. (Lots of gyro flop- see later.)
If the wheel moves will cause gyro flop and the brakes won’t work so well. - get the wheel straight as soon as this happens and there’s no problem.
You should replace the cables every so often as flop occurs if one stretches more than the other.
To set these up.
The easiest way is too start at the brake calliper and move forward.
Make sure you have the gyro plate sitting flush on the baseplate. Have the adjusters wound all the way out, pull the cables taught with NO spring tension, tighten, wind adjusters in. Connect the top cables, now pull the brake and turn the bars and check for flop, if there is any, lift the cables to tension them by the calliper to check which one needs a tweak, use the adjusters to tweak.
When the flop is eliminated, tighten the springs gently as required, recheck for flop, adjust springs as necessary.
Now you should have lush brakes.